Fitting In

TURN AN OFF-THE-RACK SUIT INTO A NEAR CUSTOM FIT, JUST BY TALKING TO A TAILOR.

First thing first, you need to know what to ask for, because simply knowing how a suit should fit is a massive step towards buying the right suit.

Here’s what to look for-and ask for- the next time you get “GQ.”

SHOULDERS

The top of the sleeve should be even with the shoulder. If your shoulder does not fit well, there’s nothing the tailor can do. Simply exchange it for one that fits.

LAPELS

The lapels of your jacket should touch the points of your shirt collar, and should lay flat.

SLEEVES

Your jacket sleeve should be no lower than at the hinge (wrist bone) of your wrist.

WAIST

Taking your jacket in at the waist and throughout the torso by adding darts will reduce the boxy look, which many suits off-the-rack have. This will add shape and give your jacket definition.

LENGTH

When you put our hand down, your thumb should hit the bottom of your jacket. With your arms hanging straight down, you should be able to cup your fingers under the sides of your jacket.

LEGS

First and foremost, your pants should fit at the waist and you shouldn’t need a belt. To lend your pant legs contemporary shape, take them in. if you’re taking a half step before your pant legs catch up, you need a narrow leg. If you want to take them in from the bottom, try buying a trimmer cut.

BREAK

Some people prefer no break at all. I enjoy having a slight break so that the bottom of the pant just crests over the top of the shoe. To get this effect, be sure to wear dress shoes when getting your suit altered.

There you have it, just knowing these simple steps should have you long like a wealthy man.

*WHEN YOU PICK YOUR SUIT UP AFTER BEING ALTERED, BE SURE TO TRY IT ON AGAIN.